How to make a heatpipe-based cooling system on your own

   The holes marking should be done precisely with sliding mortise gauge. It will help you to find the point on the underside if you break the drill. And the outward appearance of the modded device will be more winning. Punch the marking precisely before drilling.
 

   Owing to its malleability, copper is terrible for drilling. The shavings don’t want to get out of the hole and adhere to the cutting edge. If you don’t have practical skills the drill can become jammed because of the shavings and finally break. And the broken part of the fire-hard drill gets firmly stuck in the copper… It’s very difficult to take the broken drill out, but it is possible. To do that, you must mark and drill the hole from the underside of the ingot. Then kick the fragment out with a steel bar. But it’s better not to break the drill, take it on trust.

   I have no idea how to make such deep holes without a good boring mill.., if you don’t have such a drill don’t try to use portable drill, I don’t recommend to do this. You will at best spoil all the modding and at worst get sever injuries. As a matter of fact there should be a boring mill in every school, in every fifth garage, in any workshop, so if you really need it you will find it. General guideline is to use more lubricant and raise the spindle frequently brushing off the shavings. Grip the workshop in a vice firmly, screw the vice safely to the stand as it is shown in the picture below. Safe vice’s fastening is very important, don’t neglect it. Don’t forget that a great deal depends on good drills. If you don’t have practical skills of such work train a little bit on a useless workshop. We drill copper without problems on a precision-built Swiss mill with spirit cooling at the temperature of -60° C. However we made the first modded devices in my garage on a rusty captured mill manufactured in 1937.